A day in Jerusalem.

After a few days hanging out with the Pattons in Tel Aviv, I decided to take a day trip to Jerusalem. I got up really early, and, two sherut (shared taxi) rides later, I was in the old city of Jerusalem. I was there early enough that the streets were still quiet and the market stalls were just opening. I purposely didn't chose a direction to go, but simply wandered around in the early morning quiet.

The gate that I entered through.

Streets of Jerusalem.

All of the sudden, I reached a security booth and was at the Western Wall, without really knowing how I got there. To be honest, I was expecting something different- more quiet, more reverent. Instead, it felt a little like a circus. It was one of the two mornings per week that bar mitzvahs are allowed at the wall, so there were at least 20 or 30 happening simultaneously. Each had their own little band playing loud music, their own videographer, their own religious officiant, and all of the family. When the men went onto the men's side of the Western Wall for the ceremony, the women stood on chairs to look over the barrier that divides the men's side from the women's and watched the ceremony from these chairs. It was really not what I was expecting.

The Western Wall.

View of the Temple Mount from near the Western Wall.

Walls around the Temple Mount.

The women standing on chairs and watching.

I decided to head up to the Temple Mount instead of spending much time at the Wall. There is only one entrance for non-Muslims, so I found it and breezed right through. There was no line and almost no security, and then I was on the Mount. It was a lot quieter and peaceful up there. I couldn't really go into any of the buildings because I am a woman and a non-Muslim, but I really enjoyed walking around.

I especially thought the Dome of the Rock was beautiful. The colors were really vibrant, and the tile work was so intricate.

After wandering around for a while, I left the Mount by a different gate and started wandering around the Old City again.

I found myself on the Via Dolorosa, so I decided to walk along it to see what I could see.

It became more hot and crowded and full of tourists the further I went, so I was really happy when I found the Austrian Hospice. It's a really funny set up- there's a door, and you ring the bell and get buzzed into the compound. Immediately, you're in a quiet haven off the chaotic Via Dolorosa. There is a little coffee shop (I got to order in German!), quiet gardens in which to enjoy your coffee, and a roof-top view of Jerusalem that might be one of the best. And it's all free, as long as you know what gate to knock on! It was one of my favorite places in Jerusalem- a little respite and corner of peace in the city.

View from the hospice roof.

Once I felt sufficiently rested and caffeinated, I continued on the Via to the Church of the Holy Sepulcher. I went because I felt I should, but I can't say that I enjoyed it. It was really overwhelming and incredibly touristy, and I got the feeling that most people were there more from superstition than devotion. The whole experience was capped by the fact that all I could hear the whole time I was in the church was the Islamic call to prayer from the mosque next door. It was surreal. I just spent enough time for a quick walk through the church, but left pretty quickly.

Dome in Church of the Holy Sepulcher.

Exterior of the church.

Minaret next door.

After that, I really just wanted to get out of the old city as soon as I could. I was feeling really claustrophobic and trapped. The streets were so narrow, and the buildings were all tall enough that you couldn't see out. It seemed to me like every street was a market, and every shopkeeper was harassing me to buy something from him. "Hey blond lady, look at my spices!" or "Lady, you want to buy a scarf?" The sun was beating down, and, despite my layers of sunscreen, I felt like I was burning to a little crisp. I was quiet happy to find a gate and walk outside the city a little. I haven't often had such a strong reaction to a place, but I really couldn't be in the city for much longer.

Outside the old city.

I took a little break outside the old city, and returned for my afternoon tunnel tour of the Western Wall. The tour was pretty interesting, taking us under city where they have excavated the base of the Western Wall. Some of the stones for the base of this wall were the size of a bus! It's incredible the engineering that was possible even 2000 years ago. I found the tour really worth-while.

I also spent a little more time at the Wall, this time going up to it. There was a huge religious service going on at this point for boys, which was pretty interesting to see. Including men with guns tucked into their pants corralling the boys who were a part of this service. I've never just seen guns tucked into anyone's pants in real life. It was a little strange.

Western Wall.

Man with a gun.

After my tunnel tour, I caught a sherut back to Tel Aviv and was quite happy to chill for the rest of the evening.

Overall, I found Jerusalem overwhelming and unsettling. It was interesting and old, but I think that there is an undercurrent of tension that you can feel, and I think it really got to me. Also, I felt that the religious sights were a spectacle, to the point where I just felt uncomfortable and upset and even a little disgusted. I can't remember having such a visceral reaction to a place, but I really was done in by my day in Jerusalem. I am glad that I've been, but, honestly, I'm not sure that I have any desire to ever return.

View outside the Old City walls.